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Berlin, Germany – It’s approaching noon in Prenzlauer Berg, certainly one of Berlin’s trendier districts within the east of the town, and the tables at Pasternak are beginning to fill with locals in search of lunch. With a touch of spring within the mid-March air and the easing of pandemic restrictions, it doesn’t take lengthy earlier than the seats inside and outdoors this Russian Jewish restaurant are taken. It’s a welcome sight for proprietor Ilja Kaplan, whose enterprise has taken a success since Russia invaded Ukraine on February 24.

“Through the first week of the conflict, we had many bookings cancelled and noticed individuals who weren’t essentially clients making a stand in opposition to us on-line as a result of we serve Russian meals,” Kaplan, a tall 60-year-old, casually wearing a inexperienced tracksuit, says whereas sitting exterior his restaurant. “Individuals have been leaving one-star opinions and feedback merely saying they opposed the conflict and nothing concerning the high quality of the meals. That has subsided and we’re getting clients through the days now.”

However the restaurateur attributes enterprise selecting as much as the change in climate and the loosening of pandemic restrictions. “Through the day, some folks don’t discover the Russian signal exterior the restaurant. Within the evenings, it’s nonetheless much less busy than earlier than the conflict,” says Kaplan, who speaks with concern amid light-hearted interactions with workers and clients.

A Moscow-born gastronomy graduate, Kaplan has been in Berlin for 3 many years and right this moment owns and oversees a number of institutions throughout the town that provide dishes and drinks from Russia, but in addition nations the place Russian is spoken, together with Ukraine, Latvia and Georgia.

On a private degree, Kaplan says that in current weeks his Ukrainian associate has struggled to depart their house in Berlin due to the emotional toll inflicted by the conflict.

He says the conflict has additionally hit his firm, which owns completely different institutions, and its 150 or so workers members – 70 p.c of whom are Ukrainian – arduous. “It was an entire shock to us when it first broke out,” he says. “We had a Ukrainian cook dinner who was on trip again house who advised us he couldn’t come again to work as he was already preventing with a Kalashnikov. We needed to choose up certainly one of our different Ukrainian cooks who was additionally on trip from the Polish border.”

The corporate took a powerful anti-war place from the outset, issuing a press release on their web site that highlighted the variety of the workers and the unity inside the crew, which incorporates folks from Germany, Greece, Lithuania, Ukraine, Russia, Moldova, Romania, Georgia, Argentina, Spain and France.

“Not as soon as in 30 years have we had a scenario the place we now have been drawn right into a battle on ethnic grounds. We work collectively, attempt to create ambiance and encourage our company,” the corporate stated. “We share the opinion that one nation’s aggression in opposition to one other nation is unacceptable in our trendy society. We’re categorically against any navy motion involving human casualties and violence. No nation ought to be held answerable for the wrongful actions of short-sighted politicians.”

Employees on the Russian Jewish restaurant Pasternak in Berlin say they’ve skilled much less enterprise because the begin of the Russian invasion of Ukraine on February 24 [Gouri Sharma/Al Jazeera]

‘Unfair to discriminate in opposition to Russians’

For Maxim Schidko, a 37-year-old Pasternak chef who comes from the Ukrainian capital Kyiv, his pleasant and smiling manner go some option to conceal his present worries. He says that on the primary day of the conflict, his spouse and their child needed to flee Kyiv and are actually safely in Berlin after he went to the Polish border, and Kaplan’s firm helped organise to gather them.

But different members of his household are nonetheless caught up within the battle. “My 18-year-old son is presently getting ready to hitch the navy and I’ve two cousins who’re already preventing,” he says. “My dad and mom have been at my grandmother’s funeral within the countryside when the conflict broke out, so that they have been staying there since. Leaving for the funeral turned out to be fortunate for them. I’m, after all, apprehensive for my household, however I’m satisfied Ukraine will win.”

Germany is house to the biggest (PDF) Russian-speaking inhabitants exterior the previous Soviet Union, with estimates various between 3.5 and 4.5 million folks, a sizeable proportion of whom dwell in Berlin.

Following the conflict’s outbreak, there have been reports of attacks in opposition to the group, together with an arson assault on a Russian-German college in Berlin and the vandalisation of a Russian-Polish grocery retailer in one other a part of Germany.

Whereas they haven’t had any issues at Pasternak, one other certainly one of Kaplan’s eating places obtained a threatening name demanding Russians pack up their baggage and go away.

A photo of a man in a kitchen standing next to a stove.
Ukrainian chef Maxim Schidko needed to accumulate his spouse and their child from the Polish border on the primary day of the conflict, and his 18-year-old son is ready to hitch the navy alongside his two cousins who’re already preventing [Gouri Sharma/Al Jazeera]

The native assaults have been inflicting concern for an additional Pasternak workers member, Marina Bernz, 37, a bubbly Russian German with a assured air who waits on tables on the restaurant. “I work the early shift and through the first few days of the conflict, I used to be apprehensive about what I might discover as soon as I set to work and whether or not our home windows could be damaged. It was the primary time in my life the place I didn’t really feel comfy in Germany.”

With the conflict dominating eating workers discussions, Bernz says the workers members have all been supportive of each other. “We’re a household,” she says.

However Bernz, who’s in opposition to the conflict, feels that Russians elsewhere are being unjustly focused. “It’s unfair to discriminate in opposition to Russians, particularly these residing exterior of Russia. On a regular basis Russians don’t have something to do with the conflict.”

She feels they shouldn’t be blamed for what is occurring, so she refuses to cover her roots. “I nonetheless really feel a bit uneasy however now greater than ever I’m talking Russian on the road. It isn’t our fault, so why ought to we conceal?”

Kaplan says that inside the Russian diaspora in Berlin, there are those that assist what is occurring and those that are in opposition to it. “I overtly oppose the conflict and assist the democratic values of freedom, equality and justice,” he says, including that many Russians assist Ukraine however could be too scared to voice their opinion for worry of a backlash.

“I see that the variety of Russians opposing the conflict is way greater than it appears however they worry being branded a traitor, so that they don’t communicate up. For me, there isn’t a clear distinction between Ukrainians and Russians,” he says, referring to a shared historical past, tradition and meals – the types of dishes he was uncovered to in Moscow and now provides at his restaurant.

A photo of a bartender behind the bar.
Restauranteur Ilja Kaplanat sees the dishes at his restaurant as a celebration of the independence and delicacies of the completely different locations the place Russian is spoken [Gouri Sharma/Al Jazeera]

Throwback to a Nineteen Thirties Moscow literature salon

Named after the Nobel literature prize-winning Russian author Boris Pasternak, who wrote the novel, Physician Zhivago, within the Fifties, which was banned within the Soviet Union for its unfavorable portrayal of life beneath the Soviet system, the restaurant dominates the nook of a sq. in an space that’s steeped within the metropolis’s current historical past. As soon as recognized for its Jewish artist group, it was a part of East Berlin through the time of the division. With a purpose to restore and renovate a number of the extra historic buildings within the space, the realm was closely invested in after the autumn of the Berlin Wall in 1989. Right now, as probably the most gentrified areas within the metropolis, it is usually probably the most costly locations to dwell.

Pasternak arrived within the space 5 years after reunification, with Kaplan taking up in 2002. The eatery faces the well-known Wasserturm, a water tower that was constructed within the late nineteenth century and the town’s oldest. A part of the water tower sq. grounds was as soon as used as a focus camp by the Nazis. Right now, it’s house to a playground and park.

Throughout from it sits Germany’s largest synagogue, and a faculty on its grounds, right this moment ringing with the sounds of faculty kids taking part in inside as police guards, seen exterior some Berlin synagogues, stand on the gates, whereas eating places, together with a Jewish eatery, are close by. “I used to personal that one, too,” says Kaplan, pointing to it.

Pasternak seats about 150 folks. Inside, there’s a piano, in addition to crystal chandeliers. Russian vodka bottles and photos of well-known Russian literary figures – together with copies of photographs drawn by Pasternak’s artist father – adorn the ceiling and partitions. “The design is supposed to mirror the spirit of a literature salon in a Nineteen Thirties Moscow house,” Kaplan says.

A photo of the inside of a restaurant with a bar on the left and tables and chairs on the right.
Established in 1994, the restaurant is called after Nobel prize-winning creator Boris Pasternak and is modelled on a Nineteen Thirties Moscow house literature salon [Gouri Sharma/Al Jazeera]

Its wealthy menu provides breakfast dishes of egg, crepe and fish recipes from former japanese bloc nations and their neighbours, that are served till 4pm, alongside conventional dishes like borscht soup and Jewish specialities such because the “Uncle David”, a starter of hummus and Israeli salad with smoked eggplant and paprika, Kreplach, a Jewish dish stated to originate from Jap Europe that consists of small dumplings with lamb stuffing or latkes, potato muffins, that are served with calf’s liver. Dishes are named after locations, together with the “Odessa salad”, a mixture of substances resembling child spinach, grilled shrimp and salmon fillet, and the “Georgia Bowl”, a mixture of baked goat cheese, tomatoes, avocado, and rocket, amongst different substances. The “Wareniki Leningrad”, vegetarian dumplings with potato stuffing, are additionally on provide. Kaplan says their “Pelmeni Siberia” dish of do-it-yourself beef dumplings is their hottest.

“I’m from Moscow and there you can eat all kinds of meals from the previous japanese bloc and neighbouring nations like Belarus or Ukraine,” Kaplan explains. “It’s one thing I’m accustomed to, grew up with and what I can put together, so I needed to make a menu that mirrored all of the completely different cuisines you get in Moscow.”

Kaplan says his menu celebrates the independence and delicacies of every place. “That’s why in my menu I point out the place the dishes are from,” he says.

But, because the conflict, he has needed to be extra cautious with the wording of his menu, specifically eradicating the phrase ‘Russian’ from it. “So as an alternative of ‘conventional Russian pelmeni’ (dumplings) it’s now simply ‘conventional pelmeni’. Persons are associating unhealthy issues with the phrase and even supermarkets have began banning or boycotting Russian gadgets like vodka,” he provides.

A photo of two women sitting at a table.
Bernz, proper, says she is in opposition to the conflict and is apprehensive concerning the impact that is having on common Russians [Gouri Sharma/Al Jazeera]

Supporting Ukrainians

Regardless of the challenges, Kaplan and his workers have been taking part in an energetic function in supporting Ukrainians impacted by the conflict. Establishing certainly one of his eating places as a set level, within the first couple of weeks, they collected gadgets resembling medicines, meals and garments and transported them to the Ukrainian border. They’ve additionally been serving to Ukrainian refugees discover jobs and lodging.

Kaplan says that going ahead, that is the place their focus might be since they don’t have the means to maintain sending drivers to ship items to the border. They will even proceed to supply free meals to displaced Ukrainian girls and kids at certainly one of their eating places. “I’m apprehensive about what will occur,” Kaplan says, referring to the way forward for his enterprise and the conflict.

“However for now, there received’t be any drastic adjustments with the work we’re doing.”

Within the meantime, Pasternak workers will proceed to hold on with their each day lives as a lot as they will. Ukrainian chef Schidko, who receives dwell updates concerning the scenario on the bottom by means of his household in Ukraine, says, “There was a number of assist for Ukrainian refugees and for this I’m grateful.”

“I stand with the folks,” provides the waitress Bernz. “I really feel sorry for the Ukrainians and I believe it’s nice that they’re getting the assistance they want. However who helps the Russians? The widespread folks in Russia aren’t at fault right here however they’re being punished with sanctions and restrictions. Who’s going to assist them? They will’t come to Germany, nobody else desires to take them in. I’m very involved about that.

“I believe this entire factor is ridiculous. Ukrainians and Russians are like household. There are various Ukrainians residing in Russia and the opposite method spherical, my household included. We’re all the identical. It’s like two brothers preventing.”


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